Wondering if a filament vs. resin 3D printer is the better choice? Read on to find out.
3D printing has taken the world by storm with its amazing capabilities. If you’re creating intricate figurines, functional prototypes, or full-scale armor pieces, choosing the right type of 3D printer is super important. The two most common types of consumer 3D printers are filament-based (FDM) and resin-based (SLA). Each has clear strengths and weaknesses that may work better for your needs. Let’s break down their differences and help you decide which one fits your needs best.
Build Volume
One of the biggest factors in choosing between FDM and resin printers is build volume. If you’re making large-scale prints, filament (FDM) printers are the clear winner. For the same price, an FDM printer offers a significantly larger print area compared to an SLA resin printer.
The size of many FDM build plates are big enough to print large pieces in multiple sections. Resin printers usually have much smaller build volumes, which makes it difficult to print large objects without breaking them into many tiny parts.
Print Quality
If crisp details and a flawless finish are your top priorities, SLA printing takes the crown. Resin printers can achieve insane levels of detail that FDM printers simply can’t match. One of the biggest benefits is that the prints come out with a smooth, professional finish, free from layer lines.
I’m sure you have seen 3D FDM prints and noticed their visible layer lines. It is pretty obvious the product is 3D printed with FDM parts. If this is something that doesn’t bother you, then it won’t be a decision maker. You can also sand the part to get a smoother surface.
Material and Strength
- FDM (Filament) Printing: Uses thermoplastics like PLA, ABS, and PETG. These materials are stronger and more durable, making them great for functional parts and wearable pieces. They are also non-toxic and safe for direct skin contact.
- SLA (Resin) Printing: Uses liquid resin that cures under UV light. While the details are exceptional, resin prints are usually more brittle than FDM prints. The prints also have expiration dates for lasting at max level. Standard resin is also not safe for direct skin contact without proper post-processing and sealing. This makes it a less practical choice for wearable items.
Ease of Use and Post-Processing
You may be interested to learn about how easy both are to use and how post-processing works for each. See below for a quick breakdown:
FDM Printing:
- Post-processing is more straightforward: pop off your print, remove supports (if needed), and maybe do a little sanding for smoother edges.
- One of the biggest pros is there are no harsh chemicals required. Just a bit of elbow grease and patience.
- Your prints are ready to go almost immediately! No need for curing or chemical baths.
SLA Printing:
- Requires careful handling because the resin is sticky, toxic, and can irritate your skin.
- Post-processing is a whole process. You have to wash your prints in isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to remove uncured resin and then cure them under UV light.
- The fumes can be strong, so you need good ventilation (and maybe a respirator, depending on your setup).
- It’s more of a hands-on, multi-step process. If you like the idea of high-detail prints but don’t mind a bit of work, it can be worth it.
In short, if you just want to print and go, FDM is the way to go. If you’re willing to put in the effort for ultra-detailed prints, resin might be worth the extra steps. But let’s be real—if you’re printing cosplay armor, dealing with sticky resin and toxic fumes for large prints is not the move.
Speed and Efficiency
SLA and FDM printers handle time in completely different ways, and which one is faster really depends on what you’re printing.
SLA Printing:
- SLA printers don’t care how much of the build plate you fill. If you print one tiny ring or pack the entire plate with miniatures, the print time stays the same. That’s because SLA printers use a UV light to cure an entire layer of resin at once, instead of tracing the shape like an FDM nozzle does.
- But once your print is done, you still have post-processing to do. You have to wash the prints in isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to remove uncured resin, which is a messy and toxic process. This step makes sure the print is clean and safe to handle. After that, the print needs to be placed under a UV light to fully cure, making it solid and durable. This can take anywhere from a few minutes to an hour, depending on the size of the print and the intensity of the UV light. You also need to dispose of the leftover resin and IPA properly, as they can be hazardous if not handled correctly.
FDM Printing:
- FDM printers build objects layer by layer with a heated nozzle that melts and extrudes plastic filament. The nozzle moves along a set path, depositing filament in layers that cool and solidify to form your object. This means the more complex your print, the longer it takes, since each layer needs to be drawn out individually. This means a large print might take hours (or even days).
- However, if you’re printing big objects, FDM still wins in overall efficiency. Once the print is complete, you remove it from the print bed, take off any supports, and you’re good to go. If needed, you can sand down rough edges, but there’s no sticky resin or chemical cleaning required. FDM prints are ready to use almost immediately, and the post-processing is generally limited to cosmetic improvements rather than essential safety steps.
If you’re cranking out a ton of small, detailed prints, SLA might be more time-efficient. But if you’re printing big pieces, FDM is way faster in the long run because you skip all the messy post-processing.
Cost of Filament vs. Resin 3D Printer
If budget is a factor, FDM is the more wallet-friendly option.
FDM Printing Costs:
- The printers themselves are cheaper, with decent entry-level models like the Ender 3 Pro costing around $250.
- Filament is affordable and widely available. PLA and PETG, two of the most common types, typically cost between $20-$30 per kilogram. They also don’t require any special storage.
SLA Printing Costs:
- Resin printers tend to be more expensive upfront, with entry-level models starting around $300-$500 and going up to thousands of dollars.
- Resin itself is pricey, usually costing between $35-$70 per liter. And unlike filament, it has a shelf life and needs to be stored properly.
At the end of the day, FDM printing is much cheaper overall, both in machine and material costs. SLA comes with a higher price tag and ongoing expenses for handling equipment.
Filament vs. Resin 3D Printer—Which One Should You Choose?
- Go with FDM if: You want larger build volume, durability, and affordability. It’s the best choice for cosplay armor, props, and functional parts that require strength.
- Go with SLA if: You need extremely high detail and smooth finishes, such as miniatures, jewelry, or intricate models that don’t need heavy-duty strength.
If you’re serious about 3D printing and can afford both, a dual setup, an FDM printer for large-scale prints and an SLA printer for intricate details could give you the best of both worlds.
No matter which you choose, 3D printing opens up endless creative possibilities. Happy printing!
